19/11/2025
Before leaving on our excursion this morning, we are a bit alarmed at the arrival of a block of flats securing itself to a cruise berth near us. It is the MSC Europa, which can carry 6,762 passengers and a further 2,138 a combined total of close to 9,000 people descending on a city with a population of 6,000. Our 900 odd passengers seems insignificant. Anyway, we are expecting some congestion at popular spots.
Our tour today covers the old and new capitals of Malta. Prior to Valletta being established as the Capital, the old capital was the City of Mdina. It was Capital from antiquity until the Medieval period. It continued to serve as the Capital of Malta until the arrival if the Knights of St John in 1530. They established their Capital in Birgu, in the Grand Harbour. For the Knights, the Capital needed to be near the entrance to the harbour, where they could address the security of attack from the sea in short time.
Mdina is where the Arch is shown on this map
Located in the Western Region of Malta, Mdina is a well fortified walled city which now has only 250 -300 residents, but is a major tourist attraction and is now well served with some boutique hotels and restaurants.
The main entrance gate to the walled city
The moat was never filled with water, as climbing the walls was so formidable they had plenty of time to pick off invaders as they tried to scale the walls.
In 1693 an earthquake destroyed much of the original city of Mdina, with it being rebuilt in a more French Baroque style under instructions from the then Grand Master Antonio Manoel de Vilhena.
Both Mdina and Valletta sustained significant damages in WW2 through German bombing of what was a strategic British Military location. Malta was also a submarine base. The war damage was mostly repaired.
Today the city is a major tourist attraction.
St Peters Church and Monastery, a benedictine monastery for cloistered nuns
Fortunately for us, the hoards from the MSC ship are yet to arrive, so the narrow streets are relatively quiet. many of the old buildings are now museums, restaurants or private residences.
Narrow, cobblestone streets wind through the city like a maze. They are deliberately short before changing direction or curving to limit vision to less than the distance an archers arrow can travel. This was a planned design feature for the safety of residents in case of invasion.
A typical curved side street
St Paul's Cathedral, the country's oldest church
Below is a Carmelite Church built between 1660 and 1675, in Maltese Baroque Architecture. It was the f=irst church to be built in Malta to an elliptical plan.
Mdina Carmelite Priory
Residences in the city have colourful doors and windows, interesting balconies that have been added and elaborate door knockers.
Whilst many of the building have only a few windows on the facade, they are all designed with and internal open courtyard allowing plnty of light and breeze into the residences. The restaurant below has been set up in the courtyard of one of these old buildings.
There are many beutiful buildings in Mdnia, built from the local limestone. A few of them are shown below.
Pallazo Santa Sofia
Casa Gourgion, once a noblemans house, is now a privately owned house museum
At the end of the main street we reach Bastion Square, with a big observation deck with panoramic views towards the coastline and Valletta, looking out from the elevated fortified walls of Mdina
Bastion Square
A great view from Bastion Square highlights how far from the coast Mdina is, and it is understandable why the Knights of St John commissioned the building of Valletta to protect Malta from attack by sea.
Looking out towards Valletta
Also in view from the square is a now famous church, The Rotunda of Mosta. During WW2 the Germans bombed this church and the bomb broke through the dome and landed in the church , where 300 people were praying but did not explode and there were no fatalities. It is now called
the Miracle of Mosta.
Mosta Rotunda
By now, the masses of people from the MSC Europa are appearing in town, and we can only be thankful that we were able to see Mdina in relative peace. Getting back out of the City and onto our bus was a bit more challenging, as bus parking is very limited, there is one public toilet at the entrance to the city before the entry gate, and it was very popular.
Our tour now moves on to Valletta, where we can expect the crowds will be much greater. It is only a short drive (about 20 minutes), as Malta is not a big place.
As we discovered yesterday, the city of Valletta is very close to the cruise port, so we can be back at our ship within around 10 minutes of the completion of the tour. We sail for Tunisia this afternoon with planned departure at around 5 pm.
Disembarkation from the bus takes place just outside the city walls of Valletta, just near the bus station. We walk past the Triton's Fountain featuring 3 mythological Tritons supporting a large basin, symbolising the Island's strength and connection to the sea. Unfortunately it is undergoing a renovation, so is not operating today.
Tritons Fountain
Soon we reach the city wall and cross over a bridge over the dry moat. So formidable are the walls, a wet moat was never considered necessary.
Crossing the moat to enter the city
The construction of the city of Valletta was commissioned by French Grand Master Jean Parisot de Valette, who led the defence of the Island in 1565. Valletta is named after him.
A statue of Jean de Valette can be found in Plazza Jean de Valette
A monument to the architect and engineer, that designed and built Valletta, Francesco Laparelli and Girolamo Cassar can be found between Parliament Hose and the ruins of the Opera House.
Preparations for Christmas are well under way, and a large Christmas Tree is being erected outside the new Parliament House.
During WW2, the Germans bombed and destroyed the Royal Opera House in Valletta. The government commissioned World renowned architect, Renzo Piano, to redevelop the site into a new open air theatre and arts precinct, he was also commissioned to design a new city gate and Parliament House.
New Parliament House
A very contemporary Open air theatre has filled the void of the destroyed Opera House
The columns were remains of the original Opera House
Valletta sits high above the harbour and house very steep streets running off the mainly level, main street, down towards the water.
Some of the notable buildings in Valletta are included below. There are many more but these are some of the highlights.
St John's Co - Cathedral
It has 3 clocks showing time, month and date and still works
Court of Justice
Church of St Katherine of Italy
Auberge de Castille
Malta Stock Exchange
Grand Master's Palace (too large to fit in one photo frame)
Along the main street of Valletta there are many shops, restaurants and Hotels.
The oldest Cafe in Valletta
Christmas Spirit is everywhere
We briefly visit the Upper Barrakka Gardens, where the crowds were unbelievable. MSC Europa had moved in en masse. Fortunately we went there yesterday and got some got photos from the viewing platform which I posted on yesterdays post.
It is time to head back to the ship and we have been given a bit of free time along the way to do some shopping if we wish. There wasn't a lot on offer.
We have really enjoyed Malta and it's amazing history. Tonight we sail off to Tunisia for a further history lesson.
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